By Sheila Leftridge
A complete skincare routine should include a serum. Serums fit into a skincare routine after cleansing and toning, but before heavier moisturizers and SPF. Key steps include choosing the right active formula, applying it to clean skin and sealing it in.
Face serums are concentrated, lightweight skin treatments that come in several key types, including hydrating, brightening and anti-aging formulas. They are designed to target specific skin concerns with concentrated active ingredients.
Hydrating Serums
Hydrating serums use ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin to draw moisture into the skin and help plump the appearance of fine lines.
Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin. A hydration serum is a lightweight, fast-absorbing skincare treatment designed to deliver concentrated moisture, plump the skin and support the skin barrier. Popular ingredients and products include The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum, Good Molecules Hyaluronic Acid Serum and ANUA PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum.
Glycerin and panthenol help soften the skin’s texture and hold in moisture, while ceramides help strengthen the skin barrier and prevent water loss.
Brightening Serums
Brightening serums rely on ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide and alpha-arbutin to help fade the appearance of dark spots and promote a more radiant, even-looking complexion.
A brightening serum is a concentrated skincare treatment designed to improve the appearance of dark spots, uneven skin tone and dullness using active ingredients such as vitamin C, alpha-arbutin and chemical exfoliants.
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help brighten the appearance of the skin and protect it from environmental stressors.
Alpha Arbutin vs. Beta Arbutin
Alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin are skin-brightening ingredients used to help improve the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks.
Alpha-arbutin: A biosynthetic form of arbutin that is considered more stable and is commonly used at lower concentrations, often around 2%.
Beta-arbutin: A naturally occurring form of arbutin that is generally considered less stable than alpha-arbutin and may be used at higher concentrations in skincare formulations.
When shopping for a serum, you may also see products containing AHAs and BHAs.
AHAs and BHAs
Alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are water-soluble chemical exfoliants that work primarily on the skin’s surface. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid. They help loosen dead skin cells, improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and smooth skin texture.
Beta-hydroxy acids, or BHAs, are oil-soluble chemical exfoliants. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA used in skincare. Because it is oil-soluble, salicylic acid can penetrate into pores to help dissolve excess oil and dead skin cells. It is commonly used for acne-prone and oily skin.
Main Benefits of AHAs
Surface exfoliation: Helps remove dead skin cells without the need for harsh physical scrubs.
Anti-aging benefits: Can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and support smoother-looking skin.
Fades discoloration: Can improve the appearance of dark spots, sun-related discoloration and hyperpigmentation.
Main Benefits of BHAs
Deep pore cleansing: Helps dissolve excess oil and debris inside pores.
Acne and blackhead reduction: Can help improve the appearance of blemishes, whiteheads and blackheads.
Calming properties: Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce the appearance of redness and swelling associated with blemishes.
Anti-Aging Serums
Anti-aging serums feature ingredients such as retinoids, peptides and antioxidants to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone.
Anti-aging serums use concentrated active ingredients to support smoother, firmer and more even-looking skin. Options range from affordable products such as The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum to premium treatments such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic.
Key Ingredients and Benefits
Retinoids (Vitamin A): Help increase skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, which can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Peptides: Amino acid chains that can support the appearance of firmer, more elastic skin.
Vitamin C: An antioxidant that helps brighten the appearance of dark spots and provides antioxidant protection from environmental stressors.
Hyaluronic acid: Helps attract and retain moisture, giving the skin a plumper, more hydrated appearance.
Be Cautious When Introducing New Products
Be cautious when introducing new products into your skincare regimen. Pay attention to how your skin responds, and keep soothing products available in case irritation occurs.
Some people use products such as aloe vera gel to soothe irritated skin. Hydrocortisone cream or ointment may also be used for certain types of skin irritation, but it is important to follow the product directions and consider consulting a health care professional if irritation is severe, persistent or worsening.
If a new product causes irritation, stop using it and evaluate whether it should be returned according to the merchant’s return policy. Do not assume that an irritating facial product is safe to use elsewhere on the body.
The goal of a skincare routine is not to use the most products. It is to find the products and ingredients that work best for your skin and use them consistently.
